Ireland Summary and Photos

We are finally back after two weeks in Ireland. We got home Thursday evening, a few hours late, which seems to be the case for nearly every flight in Europe on any given day. First we boarded the plane late, then sat on the jetway for at least an hour in a long line of planes as the fog slowed the traffic down. Once in the air we were informed there was an air traffic control strike in France so we weren't allowed to fly over France and had to go around instead. Other than that it was a smooth flight. We landed and had to take a 50 minute train from Geneva to Lausanne then walk to our apartment. Maybe it was all that fried Irish food, maybe the suitcases or maybe we were just tird, but I swear that hill from the station got steeper while we were gone.

I have uploaded all the photos in several sub-albums under the Ireland link. There are a few humdred and it took quite a while but I think they are organized fairly well. I have them sorted into 8 albums chronologically according to the places we were staying or visiting. You may notice that there are a lot more pictures from the beginning of the trip than the end. Partially because we got a little tired, partially because Dad left on the 15th so we had one less photographer, but mostly because all the castles and ruins are very cool at the beginning until you realize there are more about every fifty feet, until finally you get to the point where the sight of another castle makes you want to scream. There were some cool ones though.

Achill Island and Ashford Castle were definitely highlights of the trip, and St. Patrick's Day in Dublin was a fun experience as well. I think Mom has decided she wants to return and have a whole vacation at Ashford. We spend two nights there and you really never have to leave the grounds. We enjoyed a boat ride and the falconry school, but they also have plenty more to do, including fishing or horseback riding as well as a spa. We also wandered around Cong Village which is just outside of the castle grounds and like every self respecting Irish town has ruins of an Abbey from a few hundred years ago as well as at least three or four pubs to choose from if not more.

From Ashford we went to Galway city and spent one night there. We wandered the shops and stopped in a pub. Dad bought Mom her Claddagh ring for their anniversary and we went out for a nice dinner. Driving from each place to the next was always beautiful and there were plenty of stops along the way. By this point in time we had seen Kylemore Abbey, Croagh Patrick, Granuaille Museum and a Famine Museum, Westport House, and more than a few pubs, castles or other old ruins, and cemetaries. Driving in itself is an adventure. For starters you have to get used to driving on the opposite. Not only that, but everything in the car itself is opposite. Any automatic reaction is incorrect. Try to look in the rear view and then you realize it's on the other side. Try to turn on the turn indicator and you turn on the windshield wipers. It gets a little confusing. Add to that the roads are very narrow, there is no shoulder, and usually an old stone wall to the left. Sometimes the road is not wide enough for two cars to drive through, and usually the roads are very windy. The best part is that even on these narrow winding roads the speed limit is 100kph! This is the speed limit on motorways in most of Europe and it is faster than you can drive on any freeways in Phoenix. It translates in mph to about 65. However, we got through without dinging the left side mirror, which is quite an accomplishment. Mom did most of the driving (she is a horrible passenger in the US, she was totally freaking out in Ireland).

From Galway we went to Dromoland Castle. On the way we stopped at the Cliffs of Moher and drove through the Burren. We wanted to see the Doolin Caves but were unable as it was not yet open. Tourist season officially begins they day after Paddy's Day, so on more than one occasion we were unable to do what we had wanted. On the upside, it was not very crowded anywhere (except Dublin on Paddy's Day and the day after, of course). At Dromoland Castle we also stayed on the grounds and rented bikes. We also ate dinner on the castle grounds.

We then went on to Kinsale. We stopped at Bunratty Castle but decided not to go in as it cost 15 Euro per person and by this point we had already seen more than a few castles. We did stop at the Blarney Castle, and even though it is a bit touristy, we kissed the Blarney Stone. We were lucky it was not crowded there, as apparently there are long lines in the summertime. I don't think we would have waited around. So now we are all blessed with "the gift of the gab." Like the McGowan's need any help talking. Ha. Kinsale was rainy and cold, but by this time we were getting used to it I guess. Kinsale claims to be the gourmet capital of Ireland, and we went to one of the restaurants listed as one of the gourmet places to go, but it was certainly not the best food we had there. It was decent, but Ashford castle had better food, as did some of the later restaurants Mom and I went to in Kilkenny and Dublin. We went to a pub and heard some more live music which was fun. The next day we did a walking tour of Kinsale and then went to the Old Head of Kinsale and had lunch at The Speckled Door. Dad and Kelly had met a couple in New Zealand who were from Poland and worked at The Specked Door and recommended it. We inquired after them, the girl was at school in Dublin and will be returning to work there in the summer.

We then drove to Cork, but got there a bit late in the day so there was not much open when we had arrived. Watched the Scotland Ireland rugby game (Ireland won) and then went out to dinner in Cork. Dad returned home the following morning. Mom and I went to the old Gaol (that's jail) in Cork and then debated whether we should do more in Cork or head on to Kilkenny. While the Butter Museum was talked up as the big thing to do in Cork, we decided we could do without it. We had lunch in Cork and then drove on to Kilkenny. We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast there, which neither of us have ever done before. Mom thought it was the cutest thing! We walked around and went to dinner, as much of the sights were already closed for the day. We were disappointed that much of what we wanted to do in Kilkenny was not open until the day after St. Patrick's day, we arrived just a few days to soon. We toured the castle and then went on to Dublin.

We arrived in Dublin on March 16th. In the US St. Patricks is a Day. In Ireland it is a weeklong celebration. We went to Temple Bar because we figured it would be totally out of control on the day itself. It was oretty crazy already. We were going to hit several oubs but when we got a decent seat at one we didn't want to give it up so we stayed there quite a while. We probably celebrated a little more on the 16th than the 17th, but it worked out better that way since we only had the 18th to really see Dublin and didn't want to be hung over. In addition to the pints of Guinness, I tried a drink at the hotel called a Guinness Mojito. Sounds gross, but it was good. I thought a Black Velvet would be gross before I had tried it as well. (That's Guinness and champagne. Who knew it was such a versatile drink?)

When we started on the trip Mom would not drink the Guinness because she said she didn't like it. She stuck to the Smithwick's instead. She then complained about how bubbly it was. I told her Guinness was nicer because it had different bubbles, and that it was creamy and tasted like coffee. Once I said that she wanted to try it. Apparently she decided she didn't like it without haveing ever tasted it. Well, she loved it and that is what she drank the rest of the trip (and wine of course). I also got her to try oysters for the first time which she also had claimed not to like without trying.

We started St. Patrick's Day at the parade, along with about 600,000 other people. People were everywhere. We were lucky that the weather was sunny and beautiful. Everyone was out on the streets. We went to lunch at a restaurant that was recommended in Mom's tour book that had since closed and been replaced with a new restaurant. We were lucky that the food was awesome, better than Kinsale by far. We went to Trinity College and as part of the Paddy's Day celebartion they opened admission to the Book of Kells for free. That was a pleasant surprise, normally it costs 9 Euro per person. Trinity College also has the oldest Irish Harp in it's library.

We then went to St. Stephen's Green. The place was absolutley packed. They had closed all entrances but one so it could be monitored by the Gardai, but I still saw plenty of kids drinking beer and causing trouble. Ha ha. In the evening of course we had to go to a pub. O'Donohue's was recommended by quite a few people. It was so crowded that the people had spilled out onto the sidewalk. You had to go on the street just to walk past the place. Mom stepped in and came right back out. It was ridiculous. Instead we found a place across the street that had live music. Still crowded, but not nearly as bad. The crowds were still out fairly late, but they did seem to start dwindling fairly early. We saw more than a few people looking sick at a fairly early hour.

The following morning we got on the bus tour. They are of course the typical tourist thing to do, but they stop at all the major points and the driver gives commentary along the drive, usually entertaining. We went to St. Patrick's Cathedral, the Guinness storehouse, Ireland writer's Museum, and toured the Kilmainham Gaol. I have to say I was a bit disappointed with the Guinness tour. I thought the tour would be of where the Guinness is actualy made. Instead it is the former building, which is right next door. You do learn about how Guinness is made, but it was mostly videos and photos. The best part is that you get a free pint at the end of the tour. mom and I made it through the first three levels and then got bored with the tour and went straight to the top. It was interesting to learn a little about the beer, but I expected a lot more. The Gaol tour was very nice and we learned a great deal of history about the various uprisings in Irish history, especially the Easter rising of 1916. That night we had another very nice meal at a restaurant called Chapter One. Good service, good wine, great food, great dessert, and some awesome house made caramels. It was a good way to finish the trip.